
There’s a nip in the air as the jeep winds
its way up the hill. A herd of Sambar stands in the middle of the road. Our
driver brings the jeep to a halt. The largest of the deer stares hard at us.
It almost seems as if he’s debating whether
to let us pass. It’s an uncanny feeling as we lock gazes. Without warning, he
turns his head and leads his companions into a thicket of bushes. As the driver
sets our jeep in motion, I realise that my toes are tingling from the encounter.
I am at Biligiri Rangaswamy Hills with my
family. The two-hour drive from Mysore saw us climb almost 3,000 feet above sea
level. The bustle of the city is a distant memory. It’s a silent world but for
the occasional rustle in the dense underbrush of the deciduous forests that
surround us.
When we hear the quiet tweep that sounds
remarkably like a human voice, our driver declares it to be that of the mynah.
He drives slowly and stops to point to a tree in the distance. “It’s a serpent
eagle—look at the branch on the rear”. I’m not overly excited as the bird looks
uninspiring with its dull brown hues, but that’s before it swoops up with a
jerk. I watch it soar and simply can’t tear my eyes away.
A
sight to cherish
The crackle of the walkie-talkie cuts across
from the driver’s side. He exchanges notes with the other safari drivers, the
focus being on animal sightings. After a quick conversation, he revs the engine
and makes a sharp turn ahead. I admire the dexterity with which he manoeuvres
the vehicle on the bumpy path cutting through sharp branches and shrubs.
When I feel the first sting on my arm, I
brush it off thinking it’s a pesky insect. In a few seconds, all of us in the
jeep are swatting mosquitoes which appear to have been fed on a mega diet. Our
driver is unperturbed at our distress. He is busy turning his head in all
directions. “What are you looking for?” “Tiger!” It takes a moment for his
words to sink in. Even as I look around in excitement, a shiver runs down my
spine. When he gets off the jeep to peer at the ground, I crane my neck to see
what’s caught his interest. Pug marks! It’s a heady feeling that we are on the
trail of the elusive big cat. We wait. It might have been a few minutes, maybe
more. The entire forest seems to have gone silent. I can just feel my heart
beating faster.
The sound of a trumpet startles us. The
driver takes off like a bat from hell. Suddenly, the trees open up and we are
in the midst of a clearing. At the far end, three elephants—a tusker and two
young ones—are foraging. They are oblivious to the frenzied clicking of cameras
from our jeep. As we head out of the forest, I turn back for another glimpse. A
flock of birds flies low over a vast canopy of evergreen trees and a lone fawn
stands on the side of the path watching us leave. When I see a cavalcade of
jeeps jam-packed with tourists drive past us, reality intrudes.
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